Six months after my first life trip to Santa Lucía, I had yet to visit the famed Parque Nacional Laguna Lachua (Laguna Lachua National Park, for my gringos out there)- which was pretty sad, given that Ramiro’s home, which doubles as our humble ADAWA office, is less than 5km from the entrance of the park. In all fairness, it’s an Alta Verapaz 5 kilometers- about a half hour drive due to the poor condition of the road- and not being on-site full-time means I’ve got an awful lot to pack into my monthly trips up there.
I had enticed an acquaintance from Antigua to drive for me, as I’m fairly certain that my one week’s experience driving manual plus a highway full of Guatemalan drivers would equal certain death for all involved. A trip to Laguna Lachua was the selling point. I also had a new intern to orient. What better way to start a 2-month internship in the middle of absolutely nowhere, Alta Verapaz than with a visit to one of the best-kept secrets in Guatemala?
Parque Nacional Laguna Lachua is located in the heart of eco-region Lachua, known for being exceptionally biodiverse- the park and surrounding forest are home to 50% of all mammal species and 40% of bird species found in the country. Despite it’s ecological significance, it’s surprisingly hard to find information about visiting the park.
The distance and travel time make it one of the less popular destinations for short-term visitors to Guatemala, but its relative isolation helps to preserve the tranquility and unspoiled nature of the park. However, it also means that there’s not a whole lot of information out there regarding how to best plan a visit to the park. For those just looking for that info, jump to the bottom now. For those looking for a more narrative experience, welcome aboard!
On Sunday morning, we hopped on the Transversal Norte and drove towards the entrance of the park. After handing over Q25 for parking to the son of a family who rents out their yard for overnight visitors, we filled out a series of forms at the registration desk and were treated to a brief chat (preemptive scold) about safety, sustainability, and park rules.
Laguna Lachua is about a 4km, or 45-60 minute, walk into the jungle from the entrance of the park. It’s an easy hike with paths clearly marked, even in sticky mid-day heat. The flora is impressive- massive palms arching over the path; vines hanging from caoba trees; clear streams running beneath your feet- this is the jungle in all it’s glory.
Bugs buzzing, howler monkeys screeching (dementors, anyone?), frogs making their bizarre jungle-frog sounds (sidenote: I spent an entire night at Ramiro’s mad at whichever teenage son wouldn’t turn his cell phone alarm off only to learn that it was in fact a frog)... whether flora or fauna is your thing, Lachua does not disappoint.
The dark rich dirt turns to sand as you near the end, heralding your arrival at the lake. The first dock, at km 3, is just a teaser. Take it in, but keep going. The main attraction is far more impressive. After 1 more kilometer, the path opens up into a grassy field with changing stalls, composting toilets, and an area for camping and churrascos. Yes friends, there are churrasquerias in the park. Bring. Meat.
Between the composting latrines and the changing stalls on the right, a singular long dock leads through the trees and straight out to the lake, ending at a line of underwater volcanic rock formations that ring the tiny shoreline, heralding the beginning of the deeper water. Smaller docks stretch off to the left, to an open-air gazebo where lake-goers can hang out between dips in the lake, and to the right, behind the big cabana/gazebo located just before the end of the main dock.
And the water. Impossibly turquoise, just cool enough to be refreshing after a 4km hike but far more ‘bathwater’ than ‘bucket shower,’ underscored by white sand and lined by dense palms and brush all around, the shoreline has a distinctly Caribbean feel. Glassy and darker in the morning, it brightens to almost luminescence by noon, and remains that way until reflecting the distinct pink and blue hues of the sunset around 6:30pm.
Park officials warn that swimming is not permitted more than 50 meters past the shore due to the abundance of crocodiles that call Laguna Lachua home. What they fail to warn you about is the hundreds of little fish of varying species that meander around the shoreline in little schools that have yet to learn how far down they are on the food chain and will nip at your legs and feet if you stop moving for too long. Swimming with them feels being followed around by a 3 year old who just discovered pinching yesterday- annoying, but certainly not dangerous.
We took a long, lazy dip in the lake before going to see our rooms. The park has a bungalow with about 6 single and double rooms with extremely comfortable beds (we’re talking REAL mattresses, guys!) and mosquito nets. The bungalow is as well run as the park- a stern though friendly gentleman will remind you to remove your shoes before going up the stairs, to dry off before entering your room, and not to stomp up the stairs too loudly.
After a solid 3 days of work in the oppressive, sticky Santa Lucía heat, 3 nights of sleeping in my camping hammock, our 4 kilometer hike and an hour in the lake, I took a nap in that cabin like no nap I’ve ever taken before. The only thing that got me off it three hours later was the promise of another swim and the chance to see the sun set over Lachua.
The sunset was as beautiful as the following morning’s sunrise, and despite getting yelled at by our next door ‘neighbors’ for laughing a little too loudly a little too late, by 8am I felt like a whole new woman. The restorative waters had done their trick; I was ready to get back to work with a vengeance... Even though I would have loved to have spent another day in the water playing Little Mermaid.
DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO PARQUE NACIONAL LAGUNA LACHUA (LACHUA LAKE AND NATIONAL PARK)
When to go
March through May is the very warm, very sunny dry season, making it a great time to visit. June through November is rainy season, and December through February can get downright chilly (pack warm!). Weekdays are quieter; the weekends bring scores of Guatemalan families for day trips.
What to bring
decent shoes (hiking)
sandals (lakeside)
bathingsuit and towel
Bugspray and sunscreen
Camping equipment (if needed)
FOOD! There is no food or water sold in the park, and very little sold around it.
NOTE ON FOOD: There’s an ample kitchen next to the cabin and multiple churrasquerías available in the camping area. If you’re interested in getting meat and veggies for churrasco (which you should because it’s pretty much the most magical thing ever after a long hot day in the sun and water), buy some in Cobán or head to the nearest mercado in Playa Grande/Ixcan before going to the park. Just stay on the microbus past Lachua for another 45 minutes until it reaches Ixcan. Once you’ve made your purchases, go to the main strip in front of Banrural and ask one the waiting microbuses which one goes back to Lachua.
If you’re staying in the cabin, your needs are minimal- sheets and mosquito nets are provided and unless you’re visiting between December and February when temps dip a little lower, the sheet will be sufficient.
How to get there
Whether Guate or Antigua is your jumping-off point, all roads to Lachua pass through Cobán (unless you’re coming from the north, that is). I’ve made both treks alone multiple times as a solo female traveler with no incidents to date.
-From Antigua: take any private shuttle to Cobán (Q150-200/$20-25, 5-6 hrs). Ask the driver to drop you off at Estación del Norte, the small public microbus station on the north side of the city.
-From Guatemala City to Laguna Lachua: The Monja Blanca is the most comfortable, economical option around (Q50-Q65/$6.50-$8.50), with the priciest offering roomy cushioned seats and a bathroom on-board. The bus drops you off directly in front of Estación del Norte. Visit http://www.cobanav.net/bus.php for schedules and station info.
From Estación del Norte (in Cobán): Just say the word “Lachua” to any of the men eagerly waiting to take your bags and follow them to the correct microbus. If you’re more of a Do-It-Yourselfer, look for a bus that says Playa Grande/Ixcan, and tell the driver your destination (Q50/$6.50; 3.5 hrs). The microbus drops you off directly in front of the park entrance.
Getting In/Staying (Prices):
Park Entry- Q10/$1.30 for residents, Q50/$6.50 for foreigners
Cabin- beds are roughly Q20/$2.50 for residents, Q40/$5.50 for foreigners
Camping- by far the most economical option! Q10/$1.30 for residents, Q20/$2.50 for foreigners
Note: dollar conversations provided for reference only - dollars are not accepted at the park
Around Lachua
Although accommodations are hard to come by and the tourist industry is pretty much non-existent as of yet, it's worth hanging out in the area for a few days if you can arrange it. This is deep in the heart of Maya country, as far from the backpacker trail as you can get- Q'eqchi' is the primary language spoken and most communities surrounding the park remain without water, electricity, or even road access.
Aside from countless beautiful little pueblos set amid lush green fields and tropical forests, there are a number of impressive caves, several clear rivers fed by Lachua to swim in, and an ancient Mayan city and salt production site from approximately 100-200 AD under active excavation nearby.
ADAWA now offers home stays in Santa Lucía (the last town before the park) for tourists and volunteers, which to my knowledge is the only accommodation of its type for several hours each way. If you're interested in extending your stay around Lachua, email adawa.gt@gmail.com for more information.
