What a busy, eventful few days.
Wednesday night, after some relaxing and hanging around, Ray decided he was feeling well enough (or stir-crazy enough) to go out and see his friend, a photographer, and join him in seeing a fellow photographer present his new book at the Centro Cultural. Having left early, I was feeling a BIT better, so I decided to join them. His friend picked us up in front of Las Coupalas, and we headed downtown.
Unfortunately, the author had cancelled, so we headed to Monoloco (which translates to "Crazy Monkey") for what Ray's friend promised would be the biggest plate of nachos we would ever find. He was right. They were piled high with chicken, black beans, jalapenos, pico de gallo, sour cream, cheese, and the more guacamole than I could have hoped for. Over the nachos and a drinks, he and Ray talked photography, and I took the opportunity to ask about his views on safety, crime, and gang activity in Guatemala City.
As someone who has lived in the city his entire life, he had some interesting insights into the source of much of the violent crime that takes place. He explained that most of the shootings, most of the murders, are ordered by gang members that are in prison. Often these are members that are very high up in the chain of authority, and orders are given to members still on the streets. This is similar to what we see in the US. The Guatemalan police are largely unsuccessful at minimizing the amount of control held by the gang members or their ability to give orders. The relative weakness of the police in fighting the gangs is a large factor in their inability to protect innocent citizens from being caught in the crossfire- innocent deaths due to gang violence do happen often at home, but with less frequency than in Guatemala City.
In Guatemala City, two bus drivers are murdered on average, every single day, often because the company owner did not acquiesce to a gang's monetary demands. Business owners are routinely called at home by gang members, who demand large sums of money, or threaten violent retribution. These are not empty threats. Wealthy or successful business owners may find themselves losing thousands of US dollars due to these extortion demands. Some business owners choose to pay. Some choose to move. All make their choice carefully.
Less than a month ago, a bomb was placed on a city bus in Guatemala City. Approximately eight people died, and upwards of twenty were wounded. According to Ray's friend, there often is no rhyme or reason to the violence. If ordered to kill one individual, many gang members will not hesitate to kill those around them if it ensures their success. Sometimes an ignored demand for money is the cause. Sometimes it is not. Gangs strengthen their influence over the community by terrorizing its members. While most loathe the gangs, few citizens are even remotely willing or able to fight against them.
He laughed while relaying to us a conversation between himself and another friend from the US, who asked him if he had heard about "the tragedy" that had occurred (the assassination of a politician in Arizona). His words were striking.
"In Guatemala, if someone were to shoot all of our politicians, we would celebrate. They are all very, very bad."
These are not the words of a subversive, revolution-hungry extremist. He is soft-spoken, polite, and well-educated. In those words, he expressed more clearly the same sentiment I have been hearing since I arrived in Guatemala- politicians are corrupt. They are not "for the people." They cannot be trusted to serve the people, but rather to serve their own interests and greed. Record amounts of money are lost each year in Guatemala due to corruption. The indigenous population is marginalized and ignored. Politicians, in the eyes of the people they serve, are useless at best, criminal at worst.
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